Saturday, April 7, 2012

Rural homestay & Etosha National Park

The past three weeks have been unforgettable, to say the least.  First, our group drove to the Omusati region in the north for our week-long rural home stay.  We were each placed with families living on farms just outside of the city of Otapi.  When we met our families, we were greeted with huge smiles and warm hugs.  My first impression of them was that they were genuinely happy people, and extremely welcoming.  My meme (mother in Oshiwambo) was a short, aged woman wearing a traditional green dress that I soon learned I would see her wearing everyday.  She gave me a big, alternating shoulder hug, and we laughed together as we exchanged greetings in Oshiwambo.  As we stood together waiting for everyone else to get matched, I discovered that she did not speak a lick of English...I remember thinking, wow, this is going to be an interesting week.  My friends tried to reassure me that the homestay coordinators placed me in that family on purpose since I had gotten pretty good at Oshiwambo, but I was still not convinced.  When we were about to head home, one of my host sisters arrived and started talking to me in English- what a relief! So we all clamored into the back of a big white pick up truck and were off to our families' compounds.

I arrived to the gate of my family's compound and was greeted by a few farm animals grazing on their expansive farm.  Then as I walked down the path towards the compound, I saw a bunch of young boys running around through the tall grass- they were so shy! Whenever I would look at them or try to greet them, they would try to hide behind each other.  I soon learned they were my brothers Mathew, Samuel, Naftal, and Iita.  They led me inside the compound...it was so different from anything I had seen before! I was led to my own hut (monduda in Oshiwambo)...I'll try to upload some pictures later, but my camera was dead for most of the trip to the north unfortunately.

The first few days were fairly uneventful since we got home so late each evening that we would just eat dinner and then go to bed.  All week, our group would travel around the northern region during the day.  We did yoga at the King's palace, visited Export Processing Zones, a Fish Harvesting farm, Baobob trees (which are these HUGE trees that are ~ 1000 years old that had been hollowed out and used for hiding places during the Bush War during the liberation struggle), and we had a picnic at Rucuna Waterfall on the Angolan border (yes, we crawled under the fence to get to the Angolan side, it was incredible!).

I, like most of the others in my group, was nervous about the weekend since we would be with our families full time.  But I had the most amazing experience of my life.  Friday when we were dropped off, I went back to my compound to sit and hang out with my family.  I was playing in the dirt with a couple of the babies when a 16-year old boy came running in, grabbed my hands with a huge smile on his face, and started greeting me.  It wasn't until later that I discovered he was one of my homestay brothers that lived in Otapi for school.  But it was great to spend the weekend hanging out with him and my sister Horte.  He had so much energy, spoke English really well (thank goodness!), and knew more about American pop culture than I did.  But the weekend was fantastic.  They taught me to juice amarula fruits, cultivate the fields, pound mahongu, kill a chicken, and perform traditional dances.  My absolute favorite experience so far on this trip- on both Friday and Saturday night, we invited the neighbors over to our compound after dinner to hang out.  The whole family came out, and by light of candlelight and by the light of the moon, they taught me a ton of traditional dances.  It was absolutely incredible! They kept dragging me up to dance, and we all just laughed constantly because I definitely was NOT good at it.  So I would keep running and sitting down in the dirt and just watch my siblings have these really intense dance battles.  Then I had probably the most memorable experience so far in Namibia.  I was sitting on the ground, drawing in the dirt when all my brothers crowded around me and started copying what I was drawing by candlelight.  So as I looked up, I was completely surrounded by  the eager, smiling faces of my brothers, and then my sisters and their neighbors were all singing traditional songs in Oshiwambo.  Then I looked up to see a completely clear sky with more stars than I'd ever seen before- I could even see the Milky Way with the naked eye.  It was in that moment that I truly realized where I was and how incredible an experience I was having- this was the real Africa.  And I had never felt more at home.

After those two nights, the rest of my homestay became drastically better; I felt so much closer to my family even though communication was still difficult at times.  Laughter really did become our means of communication, especially between my Meme and me.  It truly was one of the most valuable and unforgettable experiences of my life.  When it came time to say goodbye to our families, we were all dreading it.  I never wanted to leave- my family was so kind, so genuine, and so welcoming.  But we agreed to try to stay in touch, and I promised to write them a letter with photos from the trip.

So we all climbed back into the CGE van with Uncle Passat, our trusty driver.  And we were off to Etosha, the big wildlife national park of Namibia.  Pretty soon after we entered the park, we started seeing animals all over.  We saw two elephants taking a bath at the watering hole! I guess it's pretty rare to see them (as we didn't see any more on our other safaris the next day).  I made sure to bring my binoculars for the safari, and I'm so glad I did! I could see the elephants so clearly, along with giraffes, zebra, springbok, dikdiks, wildebeest, and so much more.

That night, I helped Passat with the braai (BBQ), and then went stargazing again after dinner.  I think one of the best things I will take away from my trip to Namibia is the memories of the clear night sky.  Namibia is one of the least populated countries in the world, and because of that, has INCREDIBLE views of stars outside of the city area.  Again, I could see a strip of the Milky Way with bare eyes.  But the clearest objects in the sky were the bright lights from Venus and Jupiter.  I had never seen them so bright! And actually at the time, I didn't know what they were, but I looked it up later and found out people have been posting pictures of Venus & Jupiter all over the world (including someone from Minneapolis!).  Outside of them, I could see so many constellations and star clusters...unfortunately I forgot to bring a star map to figure out which ones were which.  Hopefully I'll remember to bring one on our camping trip to Southern Namibia.

The next day, we went on two safaris, one in the morning and one around sunset.  We saw so many animals! It got to the point where if we saw a giraffe or zebra next to our car, no one even took out their cameras because we had seen so many.  I still don't know how Passat did it, but he always spotted animals from so far away (I usually couldn't even beat him to it with my binoculars!).  But he found a lion pride for us (9 lions) which again is really rare to stumble across.  We probably spent about 3 hours taking pictures of them, it was incredible! He also found a rhino at the very end of our safari just as we had lost hope of seeing one.  Passat is the man! After our safari, we settled in for the last night in Etosha, then packed up in the morning and headed back to the homestead.  It was time to get ready for Spring Break 2012 in Zambia!

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Catching up with life in Namibia

So much has happened so I don't even know where to start. I've been in Namibia for 1.5 months now, but it feels like years.  We just got back from Swakopmund (the coast) last week which was phenomenal! Probably my favorite part of the trip so far.  The first day, we went on a tour of Swakop and the townships.  We went to a kindergarten which was actually more like a community center/safe house that youth of all ages could go to when not in school to hang out and stay out of the streets.  When we got out of our bus, the young ones started shouting "shilumbu! shilumbu!" which translates to "white foreigner" which was really fun to hear them all chanting.  They were so happy and so curious.  They gathered around us and some just wanted to touch our hands and see the difference.  Then we got to go inside, where they sang some traditional songs which was really  cool.  Once they finished singing, they said they would show us traditional dances...on the condition that we sing a song for them.  We ended up singing Row Row Row Your Boat in rounds- it actually came together pretty nicely for all of us being terrible singers.  Then they started dancing...it was INCREDIBLE. These kids could really dance.  I'll try to put the videos up that I took, but they really won't do them justice.  Sadly we had to leave right after they finished dancing- next we visited an orphanage that housed ~ 30 kids from infants to teenagers.  It was really moving because the coordinator was telling us how many of these kids had been brought to the orphanage as babies that had been dumped in toilets or trash cans, or come from abusive family situations.  I was actually really impressed with the center's facilities; the bedrooms and living areas were very spacious and comfortable.  We learned that they were funded completely off of donations (a bunch of students from the group donated money before we left) and that it was a struggle to keep the center running since the government provided zero funding.  Shocking, considering how the center helps kids from all over Namibia and provides everything they need.
So after that, we toured some of the homes in the townships, and then went to dinner at a famous lighthouse restaurant on the water.  The next day, we went to a few lecturers to learn about the economic relationships for one of the biggest ports in Southern Africa @ Walvis Bay. After an exhausting day of tours and climbing Dune 7 (the 3rd tallest sand dune in the world), we were released for the rest of the weekend in Swakop.  Our entire group decided to go quadding and sandboarding on the dunes which was absolutely fantastic! Definitely my favorite day  of the trip so far.  We were able to spend three hours zooming through the dunes...I almost fell of my four-wheeler a couple times but I still loved it.  And sandboarding was slightly terrifying because we went on our stomachs, face first, down huge dunes.  On the third run, I completely wiped out and went flying, but at least I wasn't the only one.  NO REGRETS.  I would definitely love to go back someday.  The girls and I were talking and a bunch of us decided we want to move to Swakop someday for a couple years since it's the most amazing little town.

We finally had to return to Windhoek to get back to classes, but they were really great this week.  One thing I love about my program is that they bring in incredible speakers to talk to us.  In my history class, we met the man that coined the name for Namibia, Professor Kerina.  He taught us about the Herero Genocide of 1904 which was really powerful.  We also got a speaker that was a former detainee in SWAPO'S (the liberation movement party) internment camps during the liberation struggle.  She is a representative of the Breaking the Wall of Silence movement which aims to educate about SWAPO's human rights abuses during the independence movement that is so little publicized.  The thing that really struck me was that international organizations like the United Nations participated in covering up SWAPO's human rights abuses since they had labeled SWAPO as the "sole and legitimate representative of the Namibian people," and so sought to save face.  So it was rewarding to hear her perspective on the liberation struggle when SWAPO still enjoys enormous popularity in general as being the liberators of the Namibian people.

It was interesting today because we had the opportunity to go to the University of Namibia (UNAM) to speak with Namibian students about the education & political systems, development, etc.  It was great to hear their different perspectives, especially on what they thought was necessary for future development of Namibia.    Once we finished with all of the pre-arranged questions, we were able to ask each other questions about our countries.  The one thing that sticks out to me every time I talk with youth about American culture is how much they follow our TV shows about celebrities like Jersey Shore and Keeping Up with the Kardashians.  And especially the misconceptions they have about our culture based on rumors that people tell.  For example, there is a really strong belief here that many of the celebrities/musicians like T.I., Jay-Z, Rihanna, and even Justin Beiber are members of the Freemasons- everyone tells each other not to buy their music b/c they would be supporting devil worshipers.  Similarly, a lot of people believe Lady Gaga is in the Illuminati.  I'm still not sure they believed us when we tried to reassure them otherwise.  Either way, it was a great afternoon of intercultural exchange, and we all made a lot of friends that I hope to keep in touch with when we return from our rural homestay in the north and from spring break in Zambia in 3 weeks!

Friday, February 3, 2012

Learning languages!

One of my favorite things to do when in a new place is to learn the local language.  Even though I usually butcher the pronunciation, I still love trying to learn basic stuff.  While in my South African homestay, I learned a bunch of words and phrases in Zulu. Some basics:
-Sonibonani: Hello, how are you (plural)
-Sawubona: Hello, how are you (singular)
-Mamella: listen (which we heard a lot from our 6-year old boy who needed a lot of attention)
-Mkuku: slums/metal shacks
-Isitimela: train

Dumela: Hello (in Sotho)

A typical conversation could go like this:
Sawubona (Hello, how are you?)
-Yebo. Kunjani? (I'm fine, how's it going?)
Ngikhona/Ngiyalaphila (Me, I'm well/I'm alive and well)

Once we got to Namibia, I started teaching myself Oshiwambo at my internship one day when they just left me in the office without anything to do.  The one other girl in the office is a native Oshiwambo speaker, so she taught me a few more words and helped me with pronunciation. Some things I learned:

oshilumbu: foreigner (usually someone with lighter skin)
walala po?: Good morning, & how are you?
wu uhala po?: Good afternoon & how are you?
wa tokelwa po?: Good evening & how are you?
ongeipi: Hi (informal)
onawa: I'm fine
ondjamba: elephant
okambishi: cat
oshingulu: pig
ombaka: duck
ombuku: mouse
ongolo: zebra
onkoshi: lion
ohi: fish
ongobe: cow, ongobe ilai: stupid cow
oshikombo: goat
omwe: mosquito
ondjuhwa: chicken
indapo nawa: goodbye
ombili: sorry

Yesterday we had our first Oshiwambo language class taught by our program intern Ndaku.  We got a big packet full of basic words and phrases that we may need for our rural homestay in a couple weeks.  I'm really excited!

And today we had our urban homestay prep where we found out about our families that we will be staying with starting next week Monday.  I found out my family speaks Oshiwambo and English, so I'll be able to practice even more before my rural homestay in Northern Namibia where our families may not speak much English. Hopefully I'll be able to understand and talk to my family by the time 2 weeks rolls around. Yikes it's so soon!

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Joburg

For our second day in Joburg we did another tour of Soweto, but we went into Kliptown, the notoriously poor area of the township.  For this tour, we got to get off the bus and were led around by one of the residents of Kliptown, which I found to be far better than just driving around in the bus looking through the windows.  We got a much more intimate experience since we were able to talk to people and walk into their homes.  The poverty was staggering.  Raw sewage ran through the streets, bathrooms were limited, every metal surface was thoroughly rusted and in bad condition.  Made me think about what kids do to entertain themselves, bc the shacks (mcoocoo in Zulu) were so closely together that there were no open areas for kids to play.  And I would guess that none of them got tetanus shots since those would be a luxury, so I can only imagine the kids running around and cutting themselves on rusted metal.  So we continued on our tour and talk to anyone that was walking around.  At one point, we stopped at this station called "The Kitchen" where people set up grills to cook meat and serve those that couldn't afford their own food.  On the menu: Cow intestines.  Yup, I actually tried it.  I think I was the only person who that it was delicious (at least the first piece- when I went back for seconds it didn't taste so great).  But it was a great experience, and I tried something new.  Also when I was at my Soweto homestay, I tried sheep meat and chicken hearts.  They gave me chicken feet but I couldn't get up the courage to eat it.  Baby steps.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Soweto day 1

Today we went on a tour of the Soweto township, which was especially cool for me to see what it actually looks like after doing my final project on the 1976 Soweto uprising for my class last semester.  But I have to admit.  I felt really uncomfortable when we were on the tour bus driving around the township.  It just didn't feel right to be sitting in this bus taking pictures of people's homes like they were on display for an museum exhibit.  These are their homes, and the way they have to live.  It shouldn't be something that tourists come see for a day.  Because we saw such poverty it parts of the township.  I saw roofs that were made from patches of metal, cardboard, and in one case, the trunk of a car.  I much would've rather been on the ground talking to these people to hear their story, and to see what they believe is needed from their government to raise their standard of living.

But then we got to the Hector Pieterson museum, which was really emotional at times.  We started off by getting to hear from Antoinette Pieterson, Hector's sister who is seen running alongside him in the famous picture that has become iconic of the Soweto uprising.  It was an interesting experience to hear directly from her since I had previously watched interviews of her while researching for my final project for my class.  Then we were allowed to explore inside the museum.  Reading all of the personal accounts from the event, seeing videos, looking out the window where the students first met: it was extremely emotional.  The story really came alive for me.  I think the Soweto uprising really showcases how brutal the apartheid regime was when responding to resistance.  It made me think a lot about how many were affected by the violence during that uprising.  It's just a shame that we were only given 30 minutes because I wasn't able to see all of the exhibits.

Next we went to NELSON MANDELA's old house before he went to prison.  It was unbelievable to stand in the house where he had once lived.  We saw letters he had written, his chair that only he is allowed to sit in, his boxing championship belt that he took from Sugar Ray.  It was unbelievable!